InjectaDeck Product Features
Injectadeck is not meant for tiny stoft spots, its meant for soft sections of decks, even areas that feel like they will break through soon. Injectadeck has saved decks that actually tear and sound like ripping cloth when you walk on them. Injectadeck needs only a void or mold to contain it and you have lightweight hardwood. It is used to “Fill The Void” or skim under the upper or lower thick fiberglass layer between the wood and the fiberglass or upper layer on sailboats. On the thin fiberglass decks of powerboats “skimming” is not recommended. Injection under the wood is best. Injectadeck is water catalytic and when the process is performed properly with drain holes? You can pass a marine survey moisture meter test where it was perviously failed!
- Injectadeck was created as an alternate solution to expensive wood core boat deck replacement. The first questions asked in any boat sale is; “whats the compression” and “does the deck have any soft spots”? What’s your answer going to be?
- Injectadeck is very easy to use, it’s easier than calking because you dont have to be neat.
- Created by an aerospace applications engineer because boat builders said it can’t be done without a custom hopper/mixing system. Two part foams start instantly expanding when mixed therefore require a large hole to “pour” it in with little or no control over expansion. They use hole saws and rotozips, look under your gunnel step, rod holders etc. You can drill a 3/16 or 1/4 inch holes, 3/8″ for underdeck stringers
- Injectadeck is a two part closed cell polyurethane structural foam that expands 6 times it’s size. This product starts curing in minutes and turns solid in 20 minutes, Anywhere its applied turns rock hard and in 30 minutes you’re ready to layup your fiberglass plugs or resin into your drill holes. It does not “Soak In” to a solid object it fills voids and turns to stone in a manner of speaking.. Use MARINE RX to plug holes..
- Injectadeck foam does not collapse or take on water and it takes a hammer to dent it. It comes in a complete kit that covers up to 20 sq ft of 1” thick rotted deck. Kit includes personal protection equipment.
- The engineered foams have made technological leaps in the last 40 years, the cellular structure doesn’t breakdown and start retaining water like they used to. Manufacturing one that is attracted to the soft, wet, wood pulp in your wood core fiberglass floor is the cutting edge technology you have available today. No prep, moisture is a catalyst it also contains an antibacterial agent and a pesticide to stop the rot.
- Injectadeck requires very little prep, it encapsulates wet wood pulp and expands into every airspace absorbing the air, water and requiring no venting. Don’t bother washing the deck, its not required. That bacteria eaten pulp in your deck will be encapsulated and the void filled.
- The only prep needed is to drill the 1\4″ hole in the center of the soft spot. Is your deck waterlogged, drain the excess. I like to access the bilge in the back and drill a 3/16″ hole thru the bottom layer of glass near the rear of the deck.
- You may run a coat hanger into my topside injection hole, probing leak paths in all directions. Then inject the product per detailed instructions, dont let the liquid come out, 120 seconds its foam reaction begins and you can let off.
- acetone cleans the squeeze out, I stand on the spot and shape the foam if I see the deck rise, yes you can shape it! if I over-inject a spot I bounce on it forcing the bulge underdeck. Shoot the product under the wood or substrate.
- Injectadeck uses water as a catalyst which also activates its strong adhesive properties. If your deck is truly waterlogged, drill a 1/8” thru hole in the deck allowing the lake to drain. Skipping this step will force excess water out of your drill holes after foam filling, no biggie but its a mess.
Water is not required for expansion, adhesion and curing, moisture merely adds to the adhesion of the foam. Since Injectadeck uses water as a catalyst, its also in the cartridges. The product will creep anywhere water can go, then expand into every tiny space and harden. Its moldable underfoot after 10 minutes or so.
- Injectadeck has a specialized mixing tip allowing a two part foam to enter thru a small hole. Aviation guys are very familiar with these tips. This one has a little black plastic restrictor you align over the cartridge outlet, then “tip it”.
- The mixing tip for Injectadeck is specifically designed to use a black plastic restrictor for the product to be accurately mixed. The size of the hole can be as small as 3/16” and still inject a fully mixed product. Do not set it aside, the tip cures and clogs in minutes! Other than a 50/50 mix will not be a hard foam, change the tip, dont bend or break your gun. release the trigger lock immediately.
- If the process is followed closely and the product is not over pressurized into the deck, no bulging will occur. If you have injected too much product into the space and you see the deck rise, step on it fast, you can shape the stuff. If there is any bulging, it will occur under the deck where you cannot see it. Provided you touch drilled THROUGH the wood and stopped at the lower fiberglass layer to install the product.
- Injectadeck is perfect to firm up wood core fiberglass hatches. You may heat and bend the tip for tough spots.
- If you have a spongy hatch simply open the hatch and drill the injection holes in the underside. Probe your holes with a stiff wire coat hanger in all directions. Spray lightly with water if dry rot, a moist environment improves reactivity. Inject all your holes quickly, close the hatch and apply weight on the walking surface.
- Follow the MSDS and be very careful, get this foam on your thumbnail for example and it can take 2 months to wear off. This is a professional product with warnings all over the label. Don’t get it your eyes, mouth, sweaty skin or anywhere thats wet! Read your MSDS on your Acetone too!