InjectaDeck Instructions For Use
Learn how to load the cartridges here.
Nature of the deck Rot progression
Once a screw has entered a fiberglass sandwich core, moisture starts to weep in at first, later it pours in. Gravity and wicking action bring the moisture to the bottom layer of fiberglass. In many vessels forming an entire lake! The water is no longer exposed to air and collects. The rotting process starts from the bottom, by the time you feel a bad spot? Its more than halfway rotted from the bottom going up. Drilling a hole at the low point of the sandwich or in the rear bilge hatch underside of the deck removes the excess water. Sometimes raising the waterline! Drill thru just the wood and fill the bottom Injectadeck will travel along the water eating as much as it can. If your dry rot? wet down your hole pattern.
TIPS: Be sure to have: A plastic tray to put towels ejected foam into. When you open a cartridge of injectadeck you have already drilled your holes in the center of the soft spot exposing the cavity or airspace to fill. Other than a 50/50 mix, you get soft foam, use the black restrictor and squeeze SLOWLY. Use the trigger release often, very often!. Stopping (over 15 secs) could dry foam in the mixer and also cause a poor mix. When loading into the gun MAKE SURE the gun’s piston discs are seated properly in the cartridge end caps, if you catch an edge? It can flip the plunger and leak the product out of the rear of the cartridge. Find the low pont in the fiberglass sandwich from the underside and drill a drain hole. This is also your safety vent,too much deck pressure could blow out product with the gasses, if you’re stepping down a bulge. wait till the foam has reacted and moving slowlybefore applying deck pressure. Inject your deck in 3 rounds, using your 3 tips and you wont miss a soft spot. Wear your safety goggles and set up your cleaning supplies prior; (Acetone, scotchbrite, fabric cleaner, paper towels, cardboard box)
1. Set up – Gather all the items you will need for the job. The Injectadeck kit, acetone, Marine RX Epoxy, a roll of paper towels, personal protection, follow MSDS PPE data on the acetone too. Don’t bother cleaning the deck, it’s not required, mask it off WELL.. Make sure your boat deck or gunwale is level. You can mask off over the drilled holes. drill holes 8″ apart. THIS PRODUCT IS NOT MEANT FOR COIN SIZED SOFT SPOTS. It is for big areas, the bgger the better. Injectadeck does not “SOAK IN” to anything, it fills the airspace. You can shoot it over or under the wood between the fiberglass layer, or fill the void left by the rot process.
2. Soft spot location – Walk your deck with a pencil marking your soft spots and your stringer locations (floor joists). Feel the outside edge of the soft spot with an X in the center, lay out a hole pattern 8″ or more and come 2″ off the hard edge probe to the center with a wire coathangar. You can drill as many as you like, its just more to plug later with white sandable epoxy MarineTEX or Marine RX or Fiberglass resin is always good, sand with a dremel or tape down. Tooling clay or play dough is a good way to hold the deck pattern. If you have a soft spot on a stringer (floor support), drill into it, probe violently, and inject it, the fiberglass its wrapped in will contain the product. You can fill delamination by skim injection and easily fill cavaties left by drained water.
3. Drilling – Drill a ¼” hole in the center of the soft spots thru one side of the fiberglass to access the “center core” and the void. You can install the product over or under the wood layer or simply fill the void left by the wood rotted away. Use a stiff wire or section of coat hanger to probe and pry leak paths inside the deck in all directions 6″ from the hole. Moisture and wood pulp are a good sign, dry rotted wood can take wetting for better adhesion. The foam is drawn to wet areas and travels along it. If your waterlogged Drill a 1/8” hole thru your entire deck in the center of the worst soft spot. This will allow excess trapped water out of the deck, if you choose not to do this the foam will bubble the excess water out the top of your drill holes. Not an issue but wait a day before you plug with MarineTEX. Always drill your drain/safety vent hole in an area that will allow the dripping water to get to the bilge if possible. Lar.ger sailboats have lost many gallons of water in the cabin caps, causing waterlines to rise
4. Prep – . Be sure to DRILL ALL OF YOUR HOLES FIRST. Lightly spray water if your dry rotted (This is Rare) and let set for 10 minutes. The Foam uses water in its catalytic action. Dry the deck surface and mask off the entire area around your 1/4″ holes. Use a razor blade to cut your tip to fit in the drilled hole. Masking entire area with newspaper prevents the product from adhering to the deck when you turn your back. Load the Injectadeck cartridge in the Injectadeck gun, remove the blue cap and the white plastic, install the black restrictor over the cartridge holes then Install the mixing tip and collar.. Before injecting, you can pump a little out on cardboard till the last two inches of tip turns WHITE Once you squeeze the gun and it flows thru the tip, use what you need, set it aside and in 2 minutes the tip is clogged, if you wish to restart, change the tip. Squeeze against a clogged tip or stuck tube or a full drill hole and its the only way to bend or break the gun. WARNING; A partially clogged tip could deliver an 80/20 soft foam mix not a 50/50 mix! It could also bend the gun! Dont over pressurize the deck or it can blow out all over the place. Have a relief hole drilled under the deck.
5. Inject – the product into the deck in two stages, squeeze the product in 1 click at a time slowly a few ounces at a time hitting the trigger release often. each triger click is about 3 cups of hard foam. If you pump a few clicks in an area of say 5 holes? Hit the release and be ready to PLUG THE HOLE If two part liquid tries to come out.keep it in the floor untill expansion/reaction begins then remove the plug or your finger. The gun has a release lever, this takes the pressure off the cartridge, press the release before removing the tip from the hole. Do not FORCE the product into the hole unless no foam is coming out. Sometimes a high pressure squeeze will seperate the lower sheet and spread.. Estimate the void remember a 6X expansion and trust the expansion and spread. Small areas just need a half squeeze of an ounce or two To prevent bulging, you can stand on it after 8 to 10 minutes to form and shape any bulging. PRESSURE PUMPING A CLOGGED TIP CAN BEND THE GUN
6. Moving from hole to hole – You must work rapidly to prevent the foam from curing in the tip. For less mess and waste, press the trigger release and as you pull the tip from the hole, cover it with a gloved finger and move to the next hole, plugging filled holes for a few minutes is best to keep liquid in the deck. Your large area masking job will allow you to work clean. in an 8″ pattern a click in each hole then release trigger, plug mix tip with finger and move to the next hole, then repeat till all holes are filled. Small spots need a faster frigger release. WAIT10 min then you can stand on it to spread the product and prevent bulging. You can shape your floor in this manner, get some help. As the foam hardens in 20 minutes, look for more soft spots and pop more holes, change mixing tips and repeat the injections.
7. Clean up – It helps to have a good wide masking job and an assistant to go behind the injector wiping up the excess with acetone and a rag. You must clean the excess immediately off and surfaces before it cures. After clean up during the 20 minute cure you will see a small puff of foam exiting the injection site. The deck in the video was not masked for clarity. you have 2 minutes to acetone wipe it up. Use lots of tape, paper towels and I use a cat litter tray to stow ejected product with paper towels. I tear off towels to “Dam Up” the foam, if I inject too much. Injectadeck stains yellow, be prepared and well masked.
8. Plugging – If liquid comes out plug your injected holes with your fingers or rubber plugs for a minute or untill the liquid product reacts and starts foaming. A few minutes later, go around to all your holes and remove the puff of foam. There are several ways of plugging your injection site. The best way is using Marine RX white epoxy. Another way is to use a fiberglass repair kit called “Bondo 420 Fiberglass epoxy repair kit” with cloth and mat included. ($15 walmart, autozone, etc) You can copy your non-skid pattern with crayola “air dry molding clay” ($8) if you like, to recreate the non-skid pattern on the floor and camouflage your drilled holes, then touch up paint to match. I roll the deck with new nonskid paint personaly.
9. Touch Up – Once you have your deck injected and you feel an additional soft spot. Drill a hole and fill that soft spot anywhere you feel one. There is no limit on the amount of holes you drill, just keep 4” away from any other holes to prevent cracking. 8 inches is the norm and plug with white sandable epoxy. You can sand and I like to roll new topside paint on the larger jobs. Order extra tips for multiple phased injection sessions.
10. Storing unused portion – As soon as your holes are all injected, press the trigger release, unscrew the colng tip. Take the white cartridge plug and the black restrictor plate you removed clean well and replace this in their places under the blue cap of the cartridge. Injectadeck cannot be mixed and installed without the special mixing tip, so order extras. If you forced the product thru a clogged tip, or full drill hole, it will force the product by the plunger and it will harden into a “stuck tube”, this cannot be reused, this also will bend/break the gun if you try. You can drill a tiny vent hole at the edge of your hole pattern to prevent blow outs or deck over pressurization.
TIPS: If you study the product and have read the brief description of the nature of expansion foams. You will understand the product fills “voids” it will never “soak in” to a solid object. You will not want to set the gun aside ever, use what you need in one application, not more. Squeeze the trigger slowly and firmly a click at a time, watch the product flow, this is not caulk, this is liquid. Press that silver tab on the gun before you lift the gun from the floor. Later after 10 minutes or more on be prepared to step on the area and shape the foam, expansion ceases in about 5 minutes, excess product will come out and any bulge transfers to the underside. For perfectly level floors lay down sections of plywood and add weight with 3″ access holes to the drill holes in your deck. You get the idea. See a bulge after 10 minutes? step on it applying pressure very gently at first, testing it, not to force product out. too hard already? Jump up and down on it, before it hardens all the way. Foe each holehoot in a few ounces and wait, trust the expansion.
In the photo below it shows the holes about 8″ – 10″ or more, skipping over solid areas with no void. You feel along with your foot for the center of a soft spot and drill a hole. Come 3″ off the hard edge and drill again staggering the pattern. Mask all of the newly drilled holes off with tape to newspaper or plastic drop cloth to protect the deck. Look at this, you know this is going to work!
Be careful with all chemical products, misuse can and will injure people, pets, finishes, etc. This is a professional product, purchase and use at your own risk.
Questions? Call the techline; 727-768-7509