Injectadeck Instructions For Use

 Learn how to load the cartridges here.

Nature of the deck Rot progression

Once a screw has entered a fiberglass sandwich core, moisture starts to weep in at first, later it pours in. Gravity and wicking action bring the moisture to the bottom layer of fiberglass. In many vessels forming an entire lake! The water is no longer exposed to air and collects. The rotting process starts from the bottom, by the time you feel a bad spot? Its more than halfway rotted from the bottom going up. Drilling a hole at the low point of the sandwich or in the rear bilge hatch underside of the deck removes the excess water. Sometimes raising the waterline! On top of the deck drill thru the layer of fiberglass and just the wood and shoot foam across the bottom layer of glass.  Injectadeck will travel along the surface filling the spaces. Less water is always best

TIPS: Be sure to have: Temperature between 45 deg F and 100 deg F and A large cardboard box to put expended paper towels, cartridges and ejected foam into. When you open a cartridge of injectadeck you have already drilled your holes in the center of the soft spot exposing the cavity or airspace to fill. Other than a 50/50 mix, you get soft foam, use the black restrictor and squeeze SLOWLY. Use the trigger release often, very often!. Stopping (over 15 secs) could dry foam in the mixing tip and also cause a poor mix.

When loading into the gun MAKE SURE the gun’s piston discs are seated properly in the cartridge end caps, if you catch an edge? It can flip the plunger and leak the product out of the rear of the cartridge. Find the low point in the fiberglass sandwich from the underside and drill a drain hole or two. This is also your safety vent, too much deck pressure could blow out product with the gasses, if you’re stepping down a bulge. wait till the foam has reacted and moving slowly before applying deck pressure. Inject your deck in 3 rounds, using your 3 tips and you wont miss a soft spot. Wear your safety goggles and set up your cleaning supplies prior; Acetone, Masking Tape or coconut or tanning oil spray (at your own slip and fall risk), alcohol, scotchbrite, fabric cleaner, paper towels, cardboard box.

UNDERSTAND!! OIL SPRAY MASKING IS DANGEROUS TO STAND ON!! So use it at your own risk. Use sparingly and crawl backward off your work. Use masking tape if you prefer.

1. Set up – Gather all the items you will need for the job. The Injectadeck kit, acetone for stains, Marine RX Epoxy, a roll of paper towels, alcohol for cleaning masking oil and personal protection for your hands and eyes. follow MSDS PPE data on the acetone and never mix chemicals, always use in ventilated areas or outside. Don’t bother cleaning the deck, it’s not required, mask it off using tape or spray oil, which we decided it works better to mask off non skid than tape but its dangerous to walk on…

Make sure your boat deck or gunwale is level. You can mask by spraying oil around, not IN, the drilled holes. drill holes 8″ – 12″ apart. THIS PRODUCT IS NOT MEANT FOR COIN SIZED SOFT SPOTS. It’s designed for big areas, the bigger the better. Injectadeck does not “SOAK IN” to anything, it fills the airspace. If your top glass is thin, shoot it under the wood or core. If you have 3/16″ thick or better top fiberglass thickness? You can skim under the top layer of fiberglass with very little bulging if you pump in excess, easy enough to force out or down.

2. Soft spot location – Walk your deck with a pencil marking your soft spots and your stringer locations (floor joists). Feel the outside edge of the soft spot with an X in the center of it, lay out a hole pattern 8″ – 12″ or more and come 3″ off the hard edge of core. You can drill as many as you like, its just more to plug later. We use white sandable epoxy MarineTEX or Marine RX or fiberglass resin is also good. Just sand any bubbles with a dremel or clear packing tape epoxy down while wet. Tooling clay or play dough is a good way to hold the deck pattern in semi cured epoxy. If you have a soft spot in a stringer beneath the deck? (floor support), drill through the floor using a 3/8″drill and into the stringer and inject it, the fiberglass the stringer is wrapped in will contain the product. You can fill delamination by skim injection and easily fill cavities left by drained water. Use this method only if you have thick upper glass like on many sailboats, 3/16 – 5/16″.

3. Drilling – Drill a ¼” hole in the center of the soft spots thru one side of the fiberglass to access the “center core” and the void. You can install the product over or under the wood layer or simply fill the void left by the wood rotted away. Use a stiff wire or section of coat hanger to probe and pry leak paths inside the deck in all directions 6″ from the hole. The foam is drawn to wet areas and travels along it.  If your waterlogged drain it! water is bad, moisture is good dry is better. Let the excess trapped water out of the deck, if you choose not to do this the foam be slightly softer and displace stained water all over the deck area.  Not an issue but wait a day before you plug with MarineTEX. Always drill your drain/safety vent holes in an area that will allow the dripping water to get to the bilge if possible. Larger sailboats have lost many gallons of water in the cabin caps, causing waterlines to rise

4. Prep – . Be sure to DRILL ALL OF YOUR HOLES FIRST. Our NEW formula requires you drain all the excess water you can. Many seemingly dry core areas are caused by a crack in the lower fiberglass layer letting the water out. This Foam uses water in its catalytic action, there is enough water in the cartridge but it wants more. Dry the deck surface and mask spray off the entire area around your 3/16 to 1/4″ holes. Use a razor blade to cut your tip to fit in the drilled hole. Have a gloved assistant dam up the ejected foam with paper towels for you. Load the Injectadeck cartridge in the Injectadeck gun, remove the blue cap and the white plastic. Install the black restrictor over the cartridge holes then Install the mixing tip, first looking inside to align its wall into an X with the restrictor. Just pull down tight then collar it. Before injecting, you can pump a little out on cardboard until the last two inches of tip turns WHITE. Once you squeeze the gun and it flows thru the tip, just use what you need, If set it aside then in 2 minutes the tip is clogged! if you wish to restart, change the tip. Squeeze against a clogged tip or stuck tube or a full drill hole and its the only way to bend or break the gun. WARNING; A partially clogged tip could deliver an 80/20 soft foam mix not a 50/50 mix! It could also bend the gun! Don’t over pressurize the deck or it can blow out all over the place. Have a couple relief holes drilled under the deck.

5. Inject – the product into the deck in two stages, squeeze the product in 1 click at a time slowly a few ounces at a time hitting the trigger release often. Each trigger click is about 3 cups of hard foam un-trigger released, still flowing. If you pump a few clicks in an area of say 5 holes? Hit the release and be ready to PLUG THE HOLE. If two part liquid tries to come out? Keep it in the floor until expansion/reaction begins then remove the plug or your finger. The gun has a release lever, this takes the pressure off the cartridge, press the release before removing the tip from the hole. Do not FORCE the product into the hole. Sometimes a high pressure squeeze will separate the lower sheet and spread across it, a benefit? Estimate the void size, remember there’s a 6X expansion dry and 8X expansion moist, just trust the expansion. Small areas just need a half squeeze of an ounce or two To prevent bulging, you can stand on it after 10 minutes to form and shape any bulging. PRESSURE PUMPING A CLOGGED TIP CAN BEND THE GUN or flip a plunger leaking the product.

6. Moving from hole to hole – You must work rapidly to prevent the foam from curing in the tip. For less mess and waste, press the trigger release and as you pull the tip from the hole, cover it with a gloved finger and move to the next hole, plugging filled holes for a few minutes is best to keep liquid in the deck. Your large area masking job will allow you to work clean. in an 8″ pattern a click in each hole then release trigger, plug mix tip with finger and move to the next hole, then repeat till all holes are filled. Small spots need a faster trigger release. WAIT 10 to 15 min then you can stand on it to spread the product and prevent bulging. You can shape your floor in this manner, get some help.  As the foam hardens in 20 to 30 minutes, look for more soft spots and pop more holes, change mixing tips and repeat the injections.

7. Clean up – It helps to have a good wide oil spray masking job and an assistant to go behind the injector wiping up the excess with acetone and a rag. You must clean the excess immediately off and surfaces before it cures. After clean up during the 20 minute cure you will see a small puff of foam exiting the injection site. The deck in a video was not masked off just for clarity.  Acetone clean deck stains before the puffs harden. Use lots of tape, paper towels and I use a cardboard box to stow ejected product with paper towels.  I tear off towels to “Dam Up” the foam, if I inject too much. Injectadeck stains yellow, be prepared and well masked.

8. Plugging – If liquid comes out plug your injected holes with your fingers or rubber plugs for a minute. Release it when the liquid product reacts and starts foaming. A few minutes later, go around to all your holes and remove the puff of foam.  Clean ejected water and step down any bulges. There are several ways of plugging your injection site. The best way is using Marine RX white epoxy AKA MarineTEX. Fiberglas resin is also good. Be prepared to re-nonskid you deck in 30 min with a 3″ roller.  Or you can copy your non-skid pattern with crayola “air dry molding clay” ($8) if you like. You can recreate the non-skid pattern in semi cured epoxy and camouflage your drilled holes, just touch up non-skid paint to match. We roll the deck with new nonskid.

9. Touch Up  – Once you have your deck injected and you feel an additional soft spot. Drill a hole and fill that soft spot anywhere you feel one.  There is no limit on the amount of holes you drill. Just keep 4” away from any other holes to prevent cracking. 10 inch pitch is the norm and plug with white sandable epoxy.  You can sand or dremel that and I like to roll new topside paint on the larger jobs. Order extra tips for multiple phased injection sessions. Half used cartridges keep for a year in the AC, unopened cartridges have a 5 year shelf life.

10. Storing unused portion – As soon as your holes are all injected, press the trigger release, unscrew the collar and tip. Take the white cartridge plug and the black restrictor plate you removed clean well. Replace these in their places under the blue cap of the cartridge. Injectadeck cannot be mixed and installed without the special mixing tip, so order extras. If you forced the product thru a clogged tip, or full drill hole, it will force the product by the plunger and it will harden into a “stuck tube”, this cannot be reused, this also will bend/break the gun if you try.

TIPS: If you study the product and have read the brief description of the nature of expansion foams. You will understand the product fills “voids” it will never “soak in” to a solid object. You will not want to set the gun aside ever, use what you need in one application, not more. Squeeze the trigger slowly and firmly a click at a time, watch the product flow, this is not caulk, this is liquid. Press that silver tab on the gun before you lift the gun from the floor. Later after 10 minutes or more on be prepared to step on the area and shape the foam, expansion ceases in about 5 minutes, excess product will come out and any bulge transfers to the underside. For perfectly level floors lay down sections of plywood and add weight with 3″ access holes to the drill holes in your deck.  You get the idea. See a bulge after 10 minutes? step on it applying pressure very gently at first, testing it, not to force product out. too hard already? You may bounce your weight up and down on it, before it hardens all the way.  For each void, shoot in a few ounces and wait, trust the expansion.

In the photo below it shows the holes about 8″ – 12″ or more, skipping over solid areas with no void. You feel along with your foot for the center of a soft spot and drill a hole. Come 3″ off the hard edge and drill again staggering the pattern.  Mask all of the newly drilled holes off with tape to newspaper or plastic drop cloth to protect the deck. Look at this, you know this is going to work!


Be careful with all chemical products, misuse can and will injure people, pets, finishes, etc. This is a professional product, purchase and use at your own risk.

Questions? Call the techline; 727-768-7509

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