- Why should I try it? – Injectadeck was created as an alternative to expensive wood core boat deck replacement. The first questions asked in any boat sale are: “what’s the compression”, “does the deck have any soft spots”, and, “will it pass a marine survey/moisture meter test?” What’s your answer going to be
- Is it as easy as you say? – Injectadeck is very easy to use, it’s easier than caulking because you don’t have to be neat. Following cartridge loading instructions prevents spills. Acetone cleans it up quickly and easily while wet or uncured..
- What is Injectadeck, exactly? Injectadeck is a two-part closed cell polyurethane structural foam that expands to 6 to 8 times its volume and cures replacing the deck’s core.
- Are there other products like Injectadeck? In short, no there are not. It was created by an aerospace applications engineer because boat builders said it couldn’t be done, not without a custom hopper/mixing system. Normally, two-part foams start instantly expanding when mixed and therefore require a large hole to “pour” it in, with little or no control over expansion. Traditional boat repair would use hole saws and rotozips to remove your deck. With Injectadeck you can drill just 3/16 or 1/4 inch holes, even 3/8″ to reach through to under deck stringers. Holes can be spaced every 8-12 inches .
- How long does it take? Injectadeck starts curing in minutes and turns solid in 20 minutes depending on ambient temp. Anywhere it’s applied turns rock hard, and in 12 hours you’re ready to start filling your drill holes. It does not “Soak In”, but instead fills voids and turns to wood in a manner of speaking. Injectadeck’s Small Boat kit comes in a complete solution that repairs up to 8sq. ft of 1” thick dry rotted empty deck. OR 16 feet of wet rotted scattered empty deck!! You can add a cartridge to your order easily
- What’s the technology? – Engineered foams have made technological leaps in the last 40 years, the cellular structure doesn’t breakdown and start retaining water like they used to. Manufacturing one that is attracted to the soft, wet, wood pulp in your wood core fiberglass floor is the cutting-edge technology you have available today. It works with the moisture as a catalyst and also contains a natural antibacterial/antifungal agent to stop the rot.
- Does it need Prep? – Injectadeck requires very little prep, it encapsulates rotted wood and expands into every airspace absorbing and displacing the air and moisture. Don’t bother washing the deck beforehand – it’s not required. That bacteria-eaten pulp in your deck will be encapsulated and the void filled. The only prep needed is to drill the 3/16 to 1/4″ holes in the center of the soft spot and 3” off the hard edge.
- What about making it look nice? Use MARINE RX or MarineTEX or just fiberglass resin (sold separately) to fill the drill holes.
- Is the Cleanup messy? It can be if cartridge loading instructions are not followed. Acetone easily cleans up the excess wet product and the “squeeze out”. If you see the deck rise you can stand on the spot and shape the foam (yes you can shape it!). If we over-inject a spot, we wait 10 min. then gently step then eventually bounce on it forcing the bulge out underdeck.
- What if I have a Waterlogged deck? Injectadeck uses water as a catalyst which also activates its strong adhesive properties. If your deck is fully waterlogged it’s recommended to drain the excess water from the underside. A good approach is to access the bilge in the back and drill a #10 drill bit to a 3/16 hole through the bottom layer of fiberglass under and near the rear of the deck or bad area if you can reach. You may run a coat hanger into your topside injection holes, probing leak paths in all directions to create flow paths. Then, inject the product per detailed instructions and don’t let the freshly injected liquid come out. This is especially true when working in an over head scenario and we recommend using rubber plugs to help with this. In 120 seconds its foam reaction begins and you can let off the finger or plug. Skipping this step will force excess water out of your drill holes after foam filling. This is not a functional problem, but it does make for a mess of yucky water on deck.
- What if my deck is Dry Rotted instead? Water is not required for expansion, adhesion, and curing – moisture adds to the adhesion of the foam, but is not required. The product will creep anywhere water can go, then expand into every tiny space and harden. No water? It hardens like stone full 15 lb to 20 lb density.
- What’s the “Special Mixing Tip”? Injectadeck has a specialized mixing tip allowing a two-part foam to enter thru a small hole. It has a little black plastic restrictor plate with holes you align over the cartridge outlet before installing the tip so the its internal divider forms an X with the restrictor divider. You then screw the collar down tight and it’s ready to go. The mixing tip is specifically designed to use a black plastic restrictor so the product is accurately mixed. The size of the drilled holes can be as small as 3/16” and you can still inject a fully mixed product. Note – Do not set it aside once started as the tip can cure and clog in minutes! Other than a 50/50 mix will not result in a hard foam so, if it does clog on you, change out the tip, be careful not to bend or break your gun, and release the trigger lock immediately. Always gently turn your cartridge over and over to mix.
- What about deck bulging? If the process is followed closely and the product is not over pressurized into the deck, no bulging will occur. If you inadvertently inject too much product into the space and see the deck start to rise, step on it gently, so to not blast product out of the other holes – after a few minutes you can GENTLY step-shape the foam while it cures. If there is any bulging, it will then occur on the underside of the deck where you cannot see it (provided you touch drilled THROUGH the wood and stopped at the lower fiberglass layer to install the product).
- How about doing Hatches? Injectadeck is perfect for firming up wood-core fiberglass hatches. You may gently heat and bend the tip for tough spots. If you have a spongy hatch simply open the hatch and drill the injection holes in the underside. You may want to probe your holes with a stiff wire coat hanger in all directions. Inject all your holes quickly, close the hatch and apply weight on the walking surface.
WARNING! – Kit includes Personal Protection Equipment and MSDS sheet. Please use this product safely.
Be very careful – if you get this foam on your wet thumbnail, for example, it can take 2 months to wear off. This is a professional product with warnings all over the label. Read all warnings and Do Not get it your eyes, mouth, sweaty skin or anywhere that’s moist! Also read the MSDS and warnings on your Acetone too! Use ONLY in well ventilated areas.