FAQ’s:
- Why should I try it? – Injectadeck was created as an alternative to expensive wood or foam core boat deck replacement or fiberglass repair. The first questions asked in any boat sale are: “what’s the compression” & “does the deck have any soft spots”? Did you have a survey “did it pass a marine survey/moisture meter test?” What’s your answer going to be?
- Is it as easy as you say? – Injectadeck is is a system, it’s set up for DIY. The instructions are straight forward and should be ready at least twice. Once you grasp the concept of filling a rotted out space(void), from the washed away wood core, or compression of old foam. It’s not hard to drill a pattern where you need it, inject a few ounces or more, in each hole, pressing the release trigger on the dispensing gun wait a few seconds then pull out, gloved finger over the mixing tip and move to the next hole. You’ll see how quickly this is accomplished, just don’t get it everywhere it stains thirsty oxidized gelcoat.
- What is Injectadeck, exactly? Injectadeck is system that lets you install a new a 12lb two-part hydrophilic structural foam that expands to 6 to 8 times its volume and cures hard, strengthening or replacing the deck’s core. It can be injected in empty fiberglass laminates or injected under the remaining core of the laminate pressing the core up against the fiberglass deck surface. Also used to fill double wall cored boat hulls where the foam is compressed and the sides soft. (2000 Searay 46′).
- Are there other products like Injectadeck? In short, no there are not. It was created by an aerospace applications engineer because boat builders said it couldn’t be done, not without a large custom hopper/mixing system. Normally, two-part foams start instantly expanding when mixed and therefore require a large hole to “pour” it in and little or no control over expansion. Traditional boat deck repair uses a saw or rotozips to remove your deck. With Injectadeck you can drill a small 3/16 hole pattern staggered every 8-10 inches for decks and up to 2ft apart down cored hulls
- How long does it take? Injectadeck expansion is complete in 15-20 minutes and turns solid in 30 minutes depending on ambient temp. Anywhere it’s applied it reacts and hardens, in a few hours the gasses from the reaction have escaped and you’re ready to start filling your injection site. It does not “Soak In” but instead fills voids and replaces the washed out core or presses the core to the surface. Since it’s best to keep the flow through the mixer going with no more than 20 seconds stopped. It takes 2 hours to treat an area twice, the second round for missed areas.
- What’s this technology? – Engineered foams have made technological leaps in the last 40 years, the cellular structure doesn’t breakdown and start retaining water like they used to. Engineering one that is attracted to the soft, wet, wood pulp in your wood core fiberglass floor is the cutting-edge technology you have available today. It uses the moisture as a catalyst and also contains a natural antibacterial/antifungal agent. to stop the rot.
- Does it need Prep? – Injectadeck requires very little prep, it encapsulates rotted wood, pulp, bugs, slime and expands into every airspace absorbing and displacing the air and moisture. Don’t bother washing the deck beforehand – it’s not required. That bacteria-eaten pulp in your deck will be encapsulated and the void filled. The only prep needed is to drill the 3/16 holes in a staggered hole pattern 8″-10″ apart.
- What about making it look nice? Use 3M 4000, or tinted polyester resin tinted to your gelcoat color you can even use West Marine’s MARINE RX or MarineTEX(sold separately) to fill & cap the injected holes. Use a 3″ roller and non skid or cover the deck with 6mm EVA foam, last boat I did we used a light grey teak pattern with white stripes.
- Does it Bulge the deck? – If you see the deck rise you can drop a flat board on the spot, stand on it and shape the foam (yes you can shape it!) within the first 8 – 10 minutes. This usually occurs on boats with very thin laminates, we recommend drilling thru the wood injecting under the core. If we over-inject a spot, we anticipate it will rise, place a piece of wood over the holes push down then stand on it, eventually bounce on it a little shaping the bulge down. Pencil plugging can cause this, don’t leave pencil plugs in place more than 5 minutes and keep an eye on any plus you installed to “make the foam find another path” not taking the path of least resistance out onto the surface.
- What if I have a Waterlogged deck? The instructions call out for a drain hole in a low point, if you cannot access the bottom layer run a #30 1/8th drill bit through the deck at a low point. The travelling foam will force the water out the drain. Injectadeck uses water as a catalyst and your laminates water activates its strong adhesive properties. A good approach is to access the bilge in the back and drill a #10 hole through the bottom layer of fiberglass under and near the rear of the deck or bad area if you can reach it. You may run a coat hanger into your topside injection holes, breaking up rotted core probing leak paths in all directions to allow flow. Inject the product per detailed instructions and don’t let the freshly injected liquid come out. Use a few pencils to temporarily plug the #10 hole for a few minutes, pull it out and use it to plug the next hole you injected. For an over head application and we recommend using a partner to install 1/4″ rubber painters plugs from Amazon to keep the liquid mix in the laminate. Skipping the drain will cause excess water to bubble & evaporate out of your drill holes for a couple days after foam filling. This is not a functional problem, but it does make for a mess of staining water on deck.
- What if my deck is Dry Rotted instead? Water is not required for expansion, adhesion, and curing – moisture adds to the adhesion of the foam, but is not required. The product will creep anywhere water can go, then expand into every tiny space and harden. No water? It hardens even more to a full 12lb to 15lb density.
- What’s the “Special Mixing Tip”? Injectadeck has a engineered mixing tip allowing a two-part foam to enter thru a small #10 hole. It has a little black plastic restrictor plate with holes you align over the cartridge outlet before pushing the tip hard so the its internal divider aligns with the restrictor divider. You then screw the collar down tight and it’s ready to go. The mixing tip is specifically designed to use a black plastic restrictor so the product is accurately mixed.
- Note – Do not set it aside for more than 20 seconds once the flow is started as the tip can cure and clog in minutes! Other than a 50/50 mix will not result in a hard foam, if you stop, change out the mixer. To stop injecting push the trigger release, wait 5 seconds and move to the next hole plugging the tip with a gloved finger.
- How about doing Hatches? Injectadeck is perfect for firming up wood-core fiberglass hatches. If you have a spongy hatch simply open the hatch and drill the injection holes in the underside. You may want to probe your holes with a stiff wire coat hanger in all directions. Inject all your holes and plug with your favorite epoxy or resin.
WARNING! – Kit includes Personal Protection Equipment and MSDS sheet. Please use this product safely.
Wear your goggles and a painters suit with hood if injecting overhead – if you get this foam in your eyes, use castor oil and rinse it out, then irrigate with water and seek medical attention. This is a professional product with warnings all over the label. Read all warnings and Do Not get it your eyes, mouth, sweaty skin or anywhere that’s moist! Also read the MSDS and warnings on the other products your using too! Use ONLY in well ventilated areas.