About Injectadeck

We’ve experimented with every material we could find and had a lot of fun with boats in Florida’s “rotted boat lots”. We saved some classic boats and we sank some, drowned a couple of outboards. We refloated the sunken boats per FWC and off to scrap.

1. Contractor foam – some was closed cell, many were not, the instructions are to pump fast, which caused a strong free rise and did damage!

2. Canned foams – Wanted it to work we really did, but no spread (migration), weak, won’t stick for long, many holes, soft, shrinks. bends easy.

3. Powder/water foam & Pour foams 2lb to 8lb – Holes too big, some types were not closed cell, not rigid, too much free rise to control.

4. Gorilla glue with and without water – No migration, only adheres a short time, becomes a solid chunk, moves around, gets heavy, broke thru.

5. Contractor Epoxies – no expansion or migration from injection point, too many holes, prefers clean, can cut through glass, dilutes easily.

Solution: We needed a compound tailored to our needs, we wanted less holes to plug and the right amount of reaction with longevity.

Injectadeck: The Ultimate Deck & Hull Repair System

We located a factory that would manufacture what we specified. The two-part foam had to have specific characteristics

Injectadeck is a complete, professional-grade system engineered to repair soft spots in fiberglass laminates. Whether it’s a classic keeper or a boat you’re preparing for sale, Injectadeck saves you thousands of dollars and weeks of labor compared to traditional deck replacement.

Why Choose Injectadeck?

Traditional repairs often require cutting out the entire deck. Injectadeck is different. It is a hydrophilic closed-cell structural foam that uses your cored laminates’ moisture to its advantage.

• Engineered for Wet Environments: Unlike epoxies or hardware-store glues, our foam is water-catalytic. It consumes moisture, envelopes rot/mildew, and becomes more adhesive in slimy, wet environments.
• Minimal Intrusion: The entire system works through a small #10 size hole with a staggered pattern and far fewer holes to drill and fill after 30 the minute cure time.
• Massive Coverage: The foam expands six times its volume, radiating up to 12″ from the injection point to fill voids in decks, hulls, hatches, and gunwales.
• Structural Integrity: Once cured, Injectadeck is a dense, 12lb structural foam that remains pliable enough to prevent cracking while supporting heavy loads. A natural pesticide to stop the munching.

The Problem: The “Lake” Inside Your Deck

Once a screw pierces a fiberglass sandwich core, moisture seeps in. Gravity pulls this water to the bottom layer, where it forms a hidden “lake.” This rots the core from the bottom up. By the time you feel a “soft spot,” the rot is already advanced halfway through the core if wood. The foam core hulls banging against a dock cause the foam core to compress and leave voids under the compression marks. We treated 70′ of a balsa-cored hull on one vessel.

The Injectadeck Solution: Our system reverses even light deck damage if applied under the core; the foam pushes the core up against the fiberglass you walk on. Injectadeck displaces standing water and absorbs residual moisture. It even has the side effect of reversing a bad moisture meter survey. The 60′ Irwin in an early video, sat on the market 2 years in St. Petersburg city marina, then was sold 3 weeks later, after the new survey.

The DIY Process: Fast and Efficient

If you can spend less than $500 to get 10 more years out of your boat, why wouldn’t you? Do you really want to put a $20,000 bow deck on a 2000 32′ Searay or an $8000 deck on a $4000 boat hull?

1. Mark: Use a pencil and walk your deck, marking the edge of the soft areas, then add up the square footage and estimate 4sqft per cartridge to place your order. Call tech support, we’re here to help.
2. Mask: Injectadeck stains yellow; mask your boat, but use boat wax in a wide area around the injection points. This protects your gelcoat and makes cleanup a breeze.
3. Layout: When you lay out your holes, stagger the pattern and remember you must fill what you drill; less is better. We apply the product in 3 rounds, feeling around for missed soft areas and adding more.
4. Drill: Never drill through the lower layer of fiberglass. Locate the center of the worst soft spot and drill a hole in the top layer of glass to investigate, look at the bit. Is it wet? is there core material?
5. Inject: Use our specialized dispensing tool and dual-cartridge system. The included restrictor plate ensures a precise mix of the two parts, even when working overhead on cabin tops or flybridges.
6. Cure: The foam migrates through wood pulp and slime, adhering the two fiberglass layers back together. You can add more if you feel more areas or you want to fill radii at the edge of a laminate.
7. Plug: You can fill your injection sites with a matching color epoxy of your choice; we use 3M 4000. We also use air-dry modeling clay to pick up the non-skid patterns and transfer to the plug when the epoxy is tack-free.
8. Finish: No shrinkage over time, and built-in antibacterial/antifungal agents stop future rot in its tracks. Always ensure you don’t drill through both layers of the laminate; Injectadeck needs the laminate to act as a mold

Pro Tip: Other products dont perform to match these instructions, call the tech line describe your project, we wont sell it to you if it wont work in your situation. If something else will? we tell you about it.

Proven in the Field

Created in 2014 by an aerospace applications engineer, Injectadeck was born from a need to save an aging boat when no other solution existed. From a 46′ SeaRay to our own 1980 Mako 20—which stayed afloat after being capsized thanks to Injectadeck—thousands of boat owners worldwide trust this system. It’s now in it’s 11th year and recommended by several Marine Surveyors in Florida.

What Our Customers Say:

• Leon Lance (World Racing Champion): “I repaired my J24 and it worked so well that I now represent the product. Injectadeck even sponsors us!”
• John Satazahn (Seattle, WA): “Installed it in my trawler top bridge. A ton of water came out, and the boat actually leveled itself in the water!”
• Jim Stubbs (Tampa, FL): “Repaired my 45′ Silverton rotted gunwales using a 28″ extension tube pushed through one hole, it was amazing. The boat passed the survey!”

Ready to Save Your Boat?

Don’t let deck rot scuttle your season. Get the professional results of a full deck replacement for a fraction of the cost and time. The naysayers are fiberglass people who want your $$ or just trolls who try to deny the physics.

Questions about your specific project? Call our Tech Line, send photos, describe your project. We are eager to help and don’t want anyone to fail. Write to us, add pics, advisors are waiting: injectadeck@gmail.com.

Injectadeck is engineered the way testing results went, and our factory makes it to spec & that’s not cheap. It’s more than just a product; it’s a complete system that uses a tiny hole to enter a fiberglass laminate. It then radiates out up to 12″, filling voids that cause soft spots in a boat’s decks, hulls, hatches, and gunwales. As Injectadeck spreads, it consumes moisture, becoming more adhesive and curing solid with enough pliability to make it last. You really can’t clean the areas that Injectadeck works in, and you don’t have to. Injectadeck adheres well in a slimy, wet environment full of pulp, mildew, moisture & bugs. Rescue your boat for sale or classic keeper like our 1980 Mako 20 – It was flipped, capsized, and Injectadeck kept it on the surface. Almost any old boat is easy to save with Injectadeck and get right back on the water!

Injectadeck is an easy DIY system to repair wood or foam cored decks, hulls, fly bridges, hatches & gunwales. The process uses an engineered water-consuming 12lb structural marine foam injected through a tiny hole that spreads 10″-12″ and more in vertical applications like cored hulls. It works through partially empty, rotted, wet wood or foam-core fiberglass laminate. It’s all about the delivery system through that #10 hole and drilling less of them. Our engineered hydrophilic structural foam works the best out of everything we tried, everything from epoxies to Gorilla Glue and a myriad of two-part compounds. (single part anything is weak). Some of the compounds & products we tried might have worked if you didn’t have to drain it, dry it, clean it, or turn the boat into Swiss cheese to install it. With our 3 outboards and a couple of trailers, we tested and tested, sank and refloated, then scrapped hulls to get this right.

The downside is that engineered foams are not cheap, nor is the equipment to dispense them. The Injectadeck kit includes the dispensing tool for it’s dual cartridge containing the 2-part foam mix. We include a restrictor plate that meters 2 liquid parts of different specific gravity as it enters the mixer. This ensures you get a precise mix, especially when working overhead across a fly bridge or cabin top. Working overhead is best done with a partner next to you, plugging the liquid in as you move the injection to the next hole. The foam is water-catalytic and becomes more adhesive when it contacts moisture enveloping wood pulp, pests, slime, mold, along is migration, adhering to the two fiberglass layers. Traditional adhesives (epoxy, etc.) simply cannot do this. Injectadeck also has the side effect of reversing a bad moisture meter survey by displacing and absorbing moisture inside the deck. Injectadeck is light, waterproof, and when cured, exhibits no shrinkage over time and has an antibacterial/antifungal agent to help stop the rot. Injectadeck fills the soft areas in a boat’s decks, hulls, hatches, and gunwales quickly and efficiently by filling the void, enveloping material, and curing solid. Injectadeck can rescue your boat-for-sale or classic keeper. Most any boat is worth saving with Injectadeck!

The Injectadeck process has improved over the last 10 years. It’s readily available as an option to cutting the deck out and replacing it, costing thousands of dollars and weeks or months of time. Let’s face it, it’s just not worth it on older boats. If you can get 10 more years out of your boat and be back on the water in a day for less than $500? It’s worth a try and won’t get in the way of any deck replacement down the road. There is really no limit to the applications of this complete system, for example: On cored hulls using the Injectadeck system, you can fill a 30′ long 5′ wide soft, rotted void by drilling 2 feet apart, 15 rows of 3 holes from chine to rub rail. We did both on the sides of a 46′ 2000 SeaRay and completed the installation the same day. Once you drill the first hole and inspect, you know the void you have. With a 1″ thick core, estimate 4 sqft per cartridge of empty laminate, and on a vertical hull wall with 1/2″ void thickness, you can get 6′ per cartridge. Never drill through both layers of a laminate; Injectadeck needs a mold to contain it. Just write or call tech support about your project for useful tactics to achieve your repair.

The problem – Once a screw has entered a fiberglass sandwich core, moisture will start to seep in, a little at first, but later it pours in. Gravity and wicking action bring the moisture to the bottom layer of fiberglass. In many boats, it forms an entire lake, lowering the vessel’s center of gravity and waterline! Once water collects, the rotting process starts working up from the bottom up, and by the time you feel a soft spot, it’s more than halfway rotted through the core material and working its way upward. This is why, if you drill in the worst spot and hit solid wood? touch drill through that wood till you hit the bottom layer of fiberglass without drilling through it. You inject the liquid under the core to push it up. The foam will spread across the lower fiberglass, consuming and displacing the water out of the drain hole you drilled in a low point of the fiberglass laminate.

The Engineering challenge – Since the inception of foam-filled products like boats and surfboards, to modern-day aircraft applications, the problem with two-part structural foams has been that they expand quickly and uncontrollably when mixed and require large holes for “the pour”. In addition, most do not address the issue of accumulated moisture or varying levels of moisture in the deck or hull, which also causes any foam hardness to vary. Once cured, Injectadeck is a hard and resilient structural foam that can support heavy loads with little or no collapse of the closed-cell waterproof structure. Expanding six times its volume, it’s a dense foam. Most boat decks, particularly older ones, are wet-rotted and perfect candidates for this product. With Injectadeck’s latest formula and process, the foam is able to adapt to all voids, wet or dry, resulting in a solid deck you can feel good about.

Background – Injectadeck was created by an aerospace applications engineer who has relied on various structural foams to provide lightweight solutions for Air, Land, and Sea applications. He needed a solution for his aging boat’s wet, rotted deck, and finding no real solution, he set about creating an efficient repair method in 2014. Since that humble beginning, thousands of boat owners all over the world have relied on Injectadeck to get more than a few more seasons out of their boat, saving their craft and their wallet from the dreaded scourge of deck rot.

*TESTIMONIALS*

• World Racing Champion Leon Lance: “I repaired my J24; it worked out so well, I sell & rep the product, and Injectadeck sponsors us.”
• John Satazahn Seattle WA: “I installed it my trawler top bridge, a ton of water came out and it leveled itself in the water!”
• Mike H. L3 Eng, Crestview FL: “I ordered my Injectadeck kit on 10/2, and it came fast, 3 days.”
• Jim Stubbs, Tampa FL: “45′ Silverton rotted gunwales, I used a 28″ clear plastic tube on the end & ran it in the gunwales, for my injection. Survey passed!”

Questions? Call the Tech Line 727-768-7509

Affiliate sales program: injectadeck@gmail.com

Sorry, no returns on international orders or domestic; it’s an